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The questions we hear most about cost, metals, mobile work and the TIG process. If yours isn't here, send it with a photo.
It depends on the metal, its thickness, how much welding there is, how much prep the part needs and whether we come to you. That's why we ask for photos first. With a close-up, a wide shot and a measurement, we can usually give you a real number.
Three photos: a close-up of the crack or joint, a wider shot of the whole part, and one with a tape measure in frame. Add the material if you know it, what the part does and whether it can come off.
Because we'd be guessing, and a guess either scares you off or turns into a surprise later. A photo takes a minute and makes the quote honest.
Less in total, but not always less per minute. Even a short weld needs setup, cleaning and gas. Ask and we'll tell you what yours comes to.
Aluminum, stainless steel, mild steel and chromoly, plus many cast aluminum parts. If you don't know what your part is, a photo and a magnet usually narrow it down.
Often, yes. Castings are porous and tend to be soaked with oil, so they need deep cleaning and preheat. Some are too contaminated to weld well, and we'll tell you if yours looks like one of them.
Not if it's done right. Low heat input, back-purging on tube and pipe, and cleaning the heat tint afterwards keep stainless stainless. Too much heat is what causes rust next to a weld.
On most steel and stainless, a sound weld can be. Heat-treated aluminum is the big exception: welding softens the metal near the weld, so that area ends up weaker. We'll tell you when that matters for your part.
Yes, across Dallas–Fort Worth. We bring a portable TIG setup to homes, shops, kitchens and job sites for parts that can't come to us.
Clear access to the part, a safe place to work and a note about what's nearby that could catch a spark. Tell us about power and access when you send photos.
Often. Railings, gates, equipment frames and trailers are usually welded in place. Anything near fuel, wiring or finished surfaces may need to come apart first.
TIG gives the welder separate control of heat and filler, so it's better on aluminum, stainless, thin metal and anything that will be seen. MIG is faster and cheaper for thick steel that will be painted. We'll tell you if MIG is the better fit.
When the part calls for it. Many TIG welds are neat enough to leave as they are. We can grind, blend or brush them when you need a flush or cosmetic finish.
Usually. We grind the old weld out to sound metal first, find out why it failed and then re-weld it. Welding over a bad weld just hides the problem.
Still wondering
Send it with a photo of the part. A picture answers half the questions we'd ask you anyway.
